A week and a half ago, I arrived in Huaraz, which is a town of 150,000 located about eight hours north of Lima. The city is the capital of the department of Ancash, and it lies in between two mountain ranges—the Cordillera Negra and the Cordillera Blanca. Before coming here, I had heard grand stories about the town from friends and travelers. However, I did not know exactly how great it would be until I arrived in person a week and a half ago.
I arrived in Huaraz last week after riding busses for 36 hours while traveling north to Peru from Chile. I came in late at night, so I went straight to a hostel and rested my exhausted body. It was not until the next morning, when I stepped outside, that the reality of my trip finally began to sink in. I went to the roof of the place I was staying and looked at the landscape of the area that I would be in for two months. I saw Andean peaks in every direction, rising over 18,000 feet, blanketed in snow and capped with glaciers. The mountains radiated sunlight and towered over everything in the valley below, including Huaraz.
My awe at the scenery continued to grow during my first few days in the area, when I explored the town and hiked up some nearby mountains. However, when I started my work at Seeds of Hope, I began to confront a different reality. I faced the reality that there are dozens of children that lack formal education and live in extreme poverty in the foothills of majestic Andean mountains that stunned me upon my arrival.
Luckily, I would become a volunteer for the small nonprofit organization Seeds of Hope, which seeks to support children who live in extreme poverty in Peru and provide vocational training for those without economic means. Founded four years ago by Yuri Chavez, Seeds of Hope now helps around fifty children of ages six to eighteen. The organization is almost entirely supported by volunteers, including two Peruvian teachers and multiple international volunteers who tutor, teach, and run workshops for the students. The Seeds of Hope school has three classrooms, a kitchen for preparing food for the children, a bathroom where the students can clean up and brush their teeth, and a garden where the students can play safely.
In January and February, the students are on vacation from their normal schools, so we have the ability to work with them all day at Seeds of Hope. Last week, I started working with Seeds of Hope by meeting the kids that attend as well as the Peruvian teachers and the international volunteers. The students who come to Seeds often have heartbreaking stories, such as Julio, who lives with his grandmother after his father died and his mother left to be a domestic worker in Lima, and Carmen, who sells potatoes in the market to help provide for her mother and five siblings who live in an adobe-brick house with a dirt floor. And these are just a few of the stories.
The teachers at Seeds are Yuri, Elvis, and Mariela, who provide formal structure for the school, including one-on-one instruction for students who struggle the most and normal classroom activities for students who need more instruction than what they are getting in their public schools.
The volunteers at Seeds of Hope augment the daily instruction by developing activities, lessons, and workshops on many subjects. Jonathan, who is working at Seeds as part of a backpacking trip through Central and South America, has been working with the kids in geography. Megan arrived at Seeds after graduating from high school, and she works with the students who are very behind for their age. Sofia, who lived half her life in Morocco and half in Canada, is working on math and communication skills with the youngest kids at Seeds. Dean, a die-hard Saints fan from New Orleans, is teaching at Seeds in order to gain skills in educating and Spanish for his future job as a bilingual teacher in Texas. Lastly, I arrived at Seeds in order to develop and teach science lessons, which include fun experiments for the students that use as few resources as possible.
My first impression of Seeds was favorable—I saw the children’s faces light up when they came together to learn in the classrooms. I saw the Peruvian teachers putting in great efforts every day to encourage learning. I saw the volunteers planning events, games, and activities that would augment the students’ learning. And I saw the Seeds of Hope facility, a very simple place that provides so much for the kids that come.
Last week, while working with students in math, communications, language, and geography, I noticed that some students struggle greatly, while others fly through problems without thinking otherwise. I was surprised by the very high education level of many of the kids, who I expected to be much farther behind than they are. In the last four years, it seems that Seeds has really made an impact on the lives of these children. In reality, more than providing tutoring and teaching, the teachers and volunteers at Seeds provide continued support for many kids who do not have any positive influences in their lives.
After a week, I realize that working at Seeds will not be easy—the reality is harsh; the kids are stubborn; and the resources are limited. However, I know that it will be a growing experience, and I am very excited for weeks to come.
Anne Marie
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Thoughts on Traveling
I never really understood traveling until I went to Mexico for a Spanish language immersion program in 2005. On that trip, I felt as if I were injected with new information daily in large doses. My senses were open to the new place—I saw stray dogs roaming the streets, I smelled spray paint from graffiti artists, I touched fruits with soft, yellow spines, I tasted gorditas and chalupas, and I touched the hands and faces of others every time I said hello.
Going to the new place blew me away, and as a result I continued exploring in later years. Since summer 2005, I have been back to Mexico four times, and I have been to Hungary, Romania, Guatemala, Chile, Argentina, and Peru. And at this moment, I do not see any end in sight to my thirst for traveling. I caught the “bug,” and, to my delight, it will not go away.
One of the most important things traveling brings is understanding and appreciation for other cultures. Though this sounds obvious, it is very important to remember. For example, last weekend I had the opportunity to experience Valparaiso’s Carnavales Culturales (Cultural Carnaval). Once again, it was one of those experiences that I would not do justice by describing in words, but take my word for it--it was awesome. Basically, the city throws a three day party where the city is jam packed with porteños (people from Valpo) and extranjeros (foreigners) twenty four hours a day. Streets are closed; there are huge concerts with famous artists, art displays around the city, theater shows throughout the day, parades at night, and lots of confetti. Basically, it was New Years all over again, except this time it lasted three days!
The best part about the entire event was that I spent it with my Chilean friends. So the entire night long while there were street bands performing on every corner, we danced and sang typical Chilean songs (I made up the words as much as I could)
I have never felt more pride in a place in which I lived until I experienced carnavales in Valpo.
The best way to describe it is in the song ¨La Joya del Pacifico¨:
Del cerro Los Placeres yo me pase al Barón
Me vine al cordillera en busca de tu amor
Te fuiste al cerro alegre y yo siempre detrás
Porteña buena moza no me hagas sufrir mas
La plaza de la victoria es un centro social
O avenida Pedro Montt como tu no hay otra igual
Mas yo quisiera cantarte con todito el corazón
Torpedera de mi ensueño Valparaíso de mi amor
Listen here: http://letras.terra.com.br/joe-vasconcellos/427433/
Miss you all!
Anne Marie
Going to the new place blew me away, and as a result I continued exploring in later years. Since summer 2005, I have been back to Mexico four times, and I have been to Hungary, Romania, Guatemala, Chile, Argentina, and Peru. And at this moment, I do not see any end in sight to my thirst for traveling. I caught the “bug,” and, to my delight, it will not go away.
One of the most important things traveling brings is understanding and appreciation for other cultures. Though this sounds obvious, it is very important to remember. For example, last weekend I had the opportunity to experience Valparaiso’s Carnavales Culturales (Cultural Carnaval). Once again, it was one of those experiences that I would not do justice by describing in words, but take my word for it--it was awesome. Basically, the city throws a three day party where the city is jam packed with porteños (people from Valpo) and extranjeros (foreigners) twenty four hours a day. Streets are closed; there are huge concerts with famous artists, art displays around the city, theater shows throughout the day, parades at night, and lots of confetti. Basically, it was New Years all over again, except this time it lasted three days!
The best part about the entire event was that I spent it with my Chilean friends. So the entire night long while there were street bands performing on every corner, we danced and sang typical Chilean songs (I made up the words as much as I could)
I have never felt more pride in a place in which I lived until I experienced carnavales in Valpo.
The best way to describe it is in the song ¨La Joya del Pacifico¨:
Del cerro Los Placeres yo me pase al Barón
Me vine al cordillera en busca de tu amor
Te fuiste al cerro alegre y yo siempre detrás
Porteña buena moza no me hagas sufrir mas
La plaza de la victoria es un centro social
O avenida Pedro Montt como tu no hay otra igual
Mas yo quisiera cantarte con todito el corazón
Torpedera de mi ensueño Valparaíso de mi amor
Listen here: http://letras.terra.com.br/joe-vasconcellos/427433/
Miss you all!
Anne Marie
Friday, January 22, 2010
Presidential Elections in Chile
I learn so much while I am traveling! I had the opportunity to be in Chile while its presidential elections took place this year, which was quite an experience! Chile has had a left-wing government for 20 years, and this election was a very close run between Frei (the leftist candidate) and Piñera (the right-center candidate). The election was very close and contested, and days before the election there were demonstrations in all the streets of Valparaiso. There was SO MUCH noise—cars honking, people chanting, politicians speaking. Then, the day of the election finally came (last Sunday), and everyone went to vote. Around 8pm they announced the results—Piñera came out ahead by a very small percentage, and for the first time in 20 years, the government would be lead by the conservative party in Chile. Wow.
I had the chance to actually go “vote” with my friend Alfredo, and in the process I learned everything I could possibly learn about elections in Chile. Here are some of the things I found interesting:
1) In Chile, they use a “voluntary inscription, mandatory vote” system for voting. This means that registering to vote is voluntary, but once people register, they must vote in every election for their entire lives! If they do not vote (and do not notify authorities with a reason), they can be fined a lot of money (sometimes close to two hundred dollars)! Apparently they are trying to change the system to a voluntary inscription, voluntary vote system, so we will see what happens with that.
2) People who are registered to vote are not free from voting until they are 80!
3) Chilean voting locations are guarded not by police, but by armed forces. They stand guard at all the doors and around the buildings to keep order and make sure nothing goes wrong.
4) The people who help out at the voting locations are mandated by law to help out. For example, they will get a summons to be a “vocal” (table helper) and they must comply, or face time behind bars!
5) If the people running the voting stations need more help, they can ask people who vote early in the day to stay for the rest of the day and help out. If these people resist their summons to help, they can be taken to jail by the police. The only way they can get out of it is if they have a plane flight or something along those lines.
6) Chileans use black ink to tint their thumbs as a marker that they voted (like our “I Voted Today” stickers).
7) When they count the votes at the end of the day, everything is very transparent and open to the public. Any person can come and watch counting of the votes, which is done out loud and on a white board in each room. You can literally watch them tally every single vote. Wow.
That was about it! It was pretty fascinating to be here for the election because it showed me how Chileans feel about the electoral process and being a democratic nation. Even though most of the people that I know voted for Frei and lost, they were not upset. They said that they were happy that democracy worked in Chile, in a way that both parties can hold power and do good for the country. Also, people in Chile do not take for granted the fact that they have a system set up so that power can be transferred between parties peacefully and amicably. Since Chile is still a young democracy, these ideas are very important in the minds of Chileans.
Nice!
Will post more soon!
Anne Marie
I had the chance to actually go “vote” with my friend Alfredo, and in the process I learned everything I could possibly learn about elections in Chile. Here are some of the things I found interesting:
1) In Chile, they use a “voluntary inscription, mandatory vote” system for voting. This means that registering to vote is voluntary, but once people register, they must vote in every election for their entire lives! If they do not vote (and do not notify authorities with a reason), they can be fined a lot of money (sometimes close to two hundred dollars)! Apparently they are trying to change the system to a voluntary inscription, voluntary vote system, so we will see what happens with that.
2) People who are registered to vote are not free from voting until they are 80!
3) Chilean voting locations are guarded not by police, but by armed forces. They stand guard at all the doors and around the buildings to keep order and make sure nothing goes wrong.
4) The people who help out at the voting locations are mandated by law to help out. For example, they will get a summons to be a “vocal” (table helper) and they must comply, or face time behind bars!
5) If the people running the voting stations need more help, they can ask people who vote early in the day to stay for the rest of the day and help out. If these people resist their summons to help, they can be taken to jail by the police. The only way they can get out of it is if they have a plane flight or something along those lines.
6) Chileans use black ink to tint their thumbs as a marker that they voted (like our “I Voted Today” stickers).
7) When they count the votes at the end of the day, everything is very transparent and open to the public. Any person can come and watch counting of the votes, which is done out loud and on a white board in each room. You can literally watch them tally every single vote. Wow.
That was about it! It was pretty fascinating to be here for the election because it showed me how Chileans feel about the electoral process and being a democratic nation. Even though most of the people that I know voted for Frei and lost, they were not upset. They said that they were happy that democracy worked in Chile, in a way that both parties can hold power and do good for the country. Also, people in Chile do not take for granted the fact that they have a system set up so that power can be transferred between parties peacefully and amicably. Since Chile is still a young democracy, these ideas are very important in the minds of Chileans.
Nice!
Will post more soon!
Anne Marie
More on Chile
I have now been in Chile for about three weeks, and I have had the opportunity to do so many amazing things! After New Years, Ivey and I went with her family to Ritoque, a very peaceful area about an hour north of Valparaiso that has dunes, beaches, beautiful rock outcroppings next to the water, and nice houses. We spent two relaxing days there, while recovering from the craziness of New Years.
Being in Ritoque for two days was very good for me, as it cleared my mind and allowed me to see the beauty in life, friends, family, and nature. We passed the time exploring on the rocks by the beach, playing with starfish, biking through lagoons and grasses, riding horses, strolling through town, watching the sunset over the beautiful ocean, playing cards, eating amazing food, talking, laughing, resting, and loving. It was an experience I had never before had in Chile—I was with my girlfriend and all her closest friends and family for two days, without phone or internet, enjoying the simple life, relaxing, and having a blast. Thank you Ivey, Tito, Alfredo, Tia Ana, Mauri, David, Victor, and Berto for the wonderful time!
Apart from our trip to Ritoque, Ivey and I caught up with friends, cooked good meals, had dinner parties, went dancing, hung out at the hostel, walked around the hills of Valparaiso, went shopping, ate empanadas, and met new friends. We also took two other day trips, to Con Con (where we climbed around and explored rocks next to the ocean) and Quintay (where we saw the old whalery, now made into a museum, and went to a tranquil beach with sparkling turquoise waters). Both places were amazingly beautiful, and I am very happy that I have been able to see so many new places on this trip!
I feel very lucky that I had the chance to return to Chile with Ivey—I learned a lot from her experiences and perception of the country, which only augmented my own. Unfortunately, she had to leave before I did, so I dropped her off at the airport and decided that I wanted to stay a bit longer before I returned to Peru. My decision pretty much resulted from the fact that a friend of mine offered me a free place to live—there was no way I was going to say no to that! So now I am living alone in a beautiful house in Valpo, getting to know the city better than I have ever known it before. Since I have been alone, I started a sailing class at Muelle Baron (the pier) and went back to Ritoque for another relaxing day with Ivey’s family.
Viva Valparaiso!
Anne Marie
Being in Ritoque for two days was very good for me, as it cleared my mind and allowed me to see the beauty in life, friends, family, and nature. We passed the time exploring on the rocks by the beach, playing with starfish, biking through lagoons and grasses, riding horses, strolling through town, watching the sunset over the beautiful ocean, playing cards, eating amazing food, talking, laughing, resting, and loving. It was an experience I had never before had in Chile—I was with my girlfriend and all her closest friends and family for two days, without phone or internet, enjoying the simple life, relaxing, and having a blast. Thank you Ivey, Tito, Alfredo, Tia Ana, Mauri, David, Victor, and Berto for the wonderful time!
Apart from our trip to Ritoque, Ivey and I caught up with friends, cooked good meals, had dinner parties, went dancing, hung out at the hostel, walked around the hills of Valparaiso, went shopping, ate empanadas, and met new friends. We also took two other day trips, to Con Con (where we climbed around and explored rocks next to the ocean) and Quintay (where we saw the old whalery, now made into a museum, and went to a tranquil beach with sparkling turquoise waters). Both places were amazingly beautiful, and I am very happy that I have been able to see so many new places on this trip!
I feel very lucky that I had the chance to return to Chile with Ivey—I learned a lot from her experiences and perception of the country, which only augmented my own. Unfortunately, she had to leave before I did, so I dropped her off at the airport and decided that I wanted to stay a bit longer before I returned to Peru. My decision pretty much resulted from the fact that a friend of mine offered me a free place to live—there was no way I was going to say no to that! So now I am living alone in a beautiful house in Valpo, getting to know the city better than I have ever known it before. Since I have been alone, I started a sailing class at Muelle Baron (the pier) and went back to Ritoque for another relaxing day with Ivey’s family.
Viva Valparaiso!
Anne Marie
New Years in Valparaiso
Valparaiso is said to have one of the best New Years celebrations in the world, on par with Sydney and Rio de Janiero… and now I know why.
After we finished Machu Picchu and left Cuzco, Ivey and I began another adventure—finding a way to get from Peru to Chile! We had bought bus tickets to get us out of Peru, and without knowing it, one of the bus rides was a “tour.” As a result, we were forced to get out of the bus at all these sites and listen to tour guides talk about churches, Inca ruins, llamas, and museums. Halfway through the 9 hour bus ride we started to get really sick of the tour aspect of it. However, just moments later, the bus dropped us off in a town called Pukara, which would not have been special if it weren’t for the festival that was going on that day! They called it the Festival de Niño Jesus (Festival of Baby Jesus), and they celebrated with intricate costumes, beautiful dances, marching bands, food, alcohol, and music! We were only there for 30 minutes or so, but it was best half hour of the entire journey! We experienced true Peruvian culture and life—up close and personal—in a tiny town in the Andean highlands of Peru!
We also had another unexpected experience due to our own bad planning—we spent two days in a city called Arica, a coastal city in the Atacama Desert in the north of Chile. The city was hot and dry and dusty, yet it had a nice sea breeze coming in from the coast. We spent our days walking around town, visiting museums, and climbing up “El Morro”—a cliff that overlooks the entire city and the entire bay.
After Arica, we flew to Santiago and then bussed to Valparaiso, our favorite city! It was my first time back since I studied there, and naturally I was excited to go back to visit a place I grew to love so much!
We arrived to Valpo right before New Years, which meant constant party for a few days. And in Chile, party means eating and drinking--wine with peaches, melon con vino (honeydew melon filled with white wine and sugar), cola de mono (aguardiente, cognac, and milk), completos (hot dogs topped with avocado, tomato, mayo, mustard, and ketchup), and chorrillanas (a pile of fries topped with beef, onion, and egg)! Then, all this partying culminated in the INCREDIBLE New Years celebration on New Years Eve.
In Valparaiso, New Years is a very important holiday. Ivey and I found this out by means of a very hectic grocery store trip on December 31st. It turns out that going to a Chilean grocery store on New Years Eve is a recipe for disaster. The store was the definition of a madhouse—we had to fight our way through a group of Chileans just to get a cart; we had to squeeze through crowded aisles, full of people hoarding massive quantities of alcohol; and we watched beer and wine displays shatter and spill booze all over the floor. After an hour and a half, we left the store, amazed that we made it out alive!
Then, come night time, we searched for a spot with a good view of the fireworks display. Other people flocked to hills, beaches, and high rises. Then we ate, drank, screamed, and celebrated! On the street where we were, there were probably 50,000 people or more yelling and screaming and flashing lights and spraying champagne. At 11:55, all the lights in the city went out. Everything was dark, apart from lighted hats, glasses, and necklaces. When the clock hit midnight, people hugged and celebrated, screaming in anticipation for the fireworks. The show was coordinated among fifteen platforms sitting about a mile apart throughout the entire bay. They all had the same show, which made for an incredible display.
Seeing New Years in Valparaiso is one of those experiences that is next to impossible to describe in words. The only thing that I can say is that I had an incredible time and would not exchange the experience for anything.
The night did not end until 9am the next day, when we left the club we had been dancing in since 4am. Then, from there we drove through the city, viewing the “destruction” from the night before—trash covering every inch of pavement, people sleeping in plazas, young people leaving clubs, and cars crushing bottles with every turn of the wheel. Yet the amazing part of it all (as my Chilean friend told me) is that the city can have a celebration like this where everything is in good fun, no one gets hurt, and the city cleans up by the next day.
So I end this entry by saying ¡FELIZ AÑO NUEVO! from Valparaiso!!!
Anne Marie
After we finished Machu Picchu and left Cuzco, Ivey and I began another adventure—finding a way to get from Peru to Chile! We had bought bus tickets to get us out of Peru, and without knowing it, one of the bus rides was a “tour.” As a result, we were forced to get out of the bus at all these sites and listen to tour guides talk about churches, Inca ruins, llamas, and museums. Halfway through the 9 hour bus ride we started to get really sick of the tour aspect of it. However, just moments later, the bus dropped us off in a town called Pukara, which would not have been special if it weren’t for the festival that was going on that day! They called it the Festival de Niño Jesus (Festival of Baby Jesus), and they celebrated with intricate costumes, beautiful dances, marching bands, food, alcohol, and music! We were only there for 30 minutes or so, but it was best half hour of the entire journey! We experienced true Peruvian culture and life—up close and personal—in a tiny town in the Andean highlands of Peru!
We also had another unexpected experience due to our own bad planning—we spent two days in a city called Arica, a coastal city in the Atacama Desert in the north of Chile. The city was hot and dry and dusty, yet it had a nice sea breeze coming in from the coast. We spent our days walking around town, visiting museums, and climbing up “El Morro”—a cliff that overlooks the entire city and the entire bay.
After Arica, we flew to Santiago and then bussed to Valparaiso, our favorite city! It was my first time back since I studied there, and naturally I was excited to go back to visit a place I grew to love so much!
We arrived to Valpo right before New Years, which meant constant party for a few days. And in Chile, party means eating and drinking--wine with peaches, melon con vino (honeydew melon filled with white wine and sugar), cola de mono (aguardiente, cognac, and milk), completos (hot dogs topped with avocado, tomato, mayo, mustard, and ketchup), and chorrillanas (a pile of fries topped with beef, onion, and egg)! Then, all this partying culminated in the INCREDIBLE New Years celebration on New Years Eve.
In Valparaiso, New Years is a very important holiday. Ivey and I found this out by means of a very hectic grocery store trip on December 31st. It turns out that going to a Chilean grocery store on New Years Eve is a recipe for disaster. The store was the definition of a madhouse—we had to fight our way through a group of Chileans just to get a cart; we had to squeeze through crowded aisles, full of people hoarding massive quantities of alcohol; and we watched beer and wine displays shatter and spill booze all over the floor. After an hour and a half, we left the store, amazed that we made it out alive!
Then, come night time, we searched for a spot with a good view of the fireworks display. Other people flocked to hills, beaches, and high rises. Then we ate, drank, screamed, and celebrated! On the street where we were, there were probably 50,000 people or more yelling and screaming and flashing lights and spraying champagne. At 11:55, all the lights in the city went out. Everything was dark, apart from lighted hats, glasses, and necklaces. When the clock hit midnight, people hugged and celebrated, screaming in anticipation for the fireworks. The show was coordinated among fifteen platforms sitting about a mile apart throughout the entire bay. They all had the same show, which made for an incredible display.
Seeing New Years in Valparaiso is one of those experiences that is next to impossible to describe in words. The only thing that I can say is that I had an incredible time and would not exchange the experience for anything.
The night did not end until 9am the next day, when we left the club we had been dancing in since 4am. Then, from there we drove through the city, viewing the “destruction” from the night before—trash covering every inch of pavement, people sleeping in plazas, young people leaving clubs, and cars crushing bottles with every turn of the wheel. Yet the amazing part of it all (as my Chilean friend told me) is that the city can have a celebration like this where everything is in good fun, no one gets hurt, and the city cleans up by the next day.
So I end this entry by saying ¡FELIZ AÑO NUEVO! from Valparaiso!!!
Anne Marie
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Christmas Day on Machu Picchu!
I am so shocked that is 2010 already, and I am even more shocked to say that I spent my last couple weeks of 2009 and first couple weeks of 2010 traveling throughout South America with some of my best friends! This trip has really been an experience of a lifetime, and I feel incredibly lucky to be a part of it.
When I was studying in Chile last year, I really learned how to travel and became comfortable with going to new places with few plans and an open mind. I also started to think about where my next trip would be when I had the chance to travel again, and I immediately chose Peru. I knew that Peru would be quite different from Chile—from the food to the culture to the landscape. I also wanted to be able to see Machu Picchu and learn about the Inca culture. So after many months looking for plane tickets and trying to make plans to go to Peru, things finally fell into place. Not only did I find a way to get to Peru and stay there for many months, I also found three friends who wanted to join. And even better, I found a way to come to Chile for New Year’s and visit all the people that I met a year ago!
I spent the last couple months of 2009 waiting in anticipation for the trip, along with my friends Anne, Ivey, Ke, and Kristina. Then, within days of finals ending in December, we all left the U.S. (on four different flights) and met up in the Lima airport on the night of December 19th.
We arrived in Cuzco the next day, where we stayed for a couple days in order to acclimatize to the altitude before we started hiking to Machu Picchu. Our first moments in Cuzco were incredible—we drank coca tea and explored the hills and streets of the antiquated town. We also ate Peruvian food, which was by far some of the most exquisite food I have ever tasted. To give you an idea, we ate asparagus soup, stuffed chicken, homemade pizzas, and avocado stuffed with chicken and veggies. We also tested our palettes with cuye, aka guinea pig, which is a traditional Peruvian dish (see photo albums for detail). It is supposedly full of fiber, but we found it salty and strange. I don’t really know how I feel about it, but I think I will give it another try at some point!
After two days in Cuzco, we woke up at 4am on December 22nd so that we would be ready for our 5am pickup to hike the Inca Trail. We finally arrived at Kilometer 82, the starting point of the four day hike! Rather than going through the details of the trek, which I could not even begin to put into words, I will provide you with a few anecdotes from each day to give you a feel for how it went!
Day One: The most memorable moments of day one included hiking alongside the Urubamba River, listening to our guide’s discussions about Incan culture and flora and fauna. He taught us about a hallucinogenic flower, pigment from wood lice, and the culture and history of the Incas. I learned so much, including the fact that the Incas represented the universe in three levels—the underworld, represented by a serpent, the land, represented by a puma, and the heavens, represented by a condor. Also, the constructed their communities in the shapes of these animals, so we had the chance to see a complex that housed about 400 people that was built into the side of the mountain in the shape of a serpent. Very interesting! Also, on Day One we hiked through areas populated by indigenous people, so we had the chance to see their houses and their lifestyle.
Day Two: Day Two was affectionately called Challenge Day, and it is not without reason. Before this trip, I thought the Grand Canyon was difficult, where we hiked almost a mile uphill on Day Two. However, the Grand Canyon was cake compared to Challenge Day, where we would have to hike about 1,500 meters (4,900 feet) not only uphill, but up Inca “death” stairs, as I began to refer to them since they were huge, steep, and slippery. Also, we were hiking at a pretty high altitude, where our highest point (Dead Woman’s Pass) was 4,200 meters (13,800 feet)! Seeing as all of us were coming from at or near sea level, this was quite the shcok to our systems, and took a while to get used to. Luckily for us, it was raining almost the entire day, so the extra oxygen in the air made things a bit easier (relatively). Haha.
The most memorable moment of that day happened exactly at the moment Anne and I arrived at Dead Woman’s Pass. We had gone up at least 1200 Inca “death” stairs for four hours straight, and we could see the entire valley below. I was singing 99 bottles of beer on the wall when I finally took the last step up to the top of the pass. And right at the moment that we arrived, it started to rain and hail very heavily! I quickly threw on my “waterproof” clothes, took a look at the looming clouds hanging over the valley, and started to go down the other side. Then, I saw Anne come frolicking down the steps with a huge smile on her face, saying, “This is badass!”
Despite the pain in our legs and the fact that we were soaking wet (turns out even rain clothes don’t keep out rain on Machu Picchu), we had a blast. Plus, when we arrived to the campsite, we got to eat lomo saltado, a famous Peruvian meat dish with veggies, potatoes, soup and garlic bread! What a treat!
Day Three: Day three was pretty eventful—we hiked up to another pass, saw more ruins, hiked downhill past a couple lakes, and then hiked through an area of rainforest while it was raining and misty out! Everything was so green and wet—it was really incredible. Plus the mist in the air made the whole scene very mystical, which just added to the experience! Once again, our clothes didn’t really keep out the rain, and we ended the day with just as many wet clothes as the day before.
The up-side of the whole situation was that getting to camp felt AMAZING and since it was the last night of camping, we were at a place that even had a bar/restaurant! AKA it had beer, a VERY welcome relief to exhausted bodies (and the altitude made getting tipsy very simple). Sitting in the restaurant with dry clothes and cold beer, I felt ridiculously lucky—I was on the side of a mountain in the Andes and I was with my best friends. Plus, it was Christmas Eve and the next day we would be at Machu Picchu!
When I didn’t think life could get any better, I was proved wrong. We went to eat dinner and had the most beautiful Christmas dinner prepared for us, thanks to our amazing cooks and porters, who work so hard (and for so little) to help us do the trek (they pretty much run the trail, while carrying around 60 pounds of supplies and wearing sandals). I can’t even remember exactly what we ate, but it was to die for. And it was cooked in a tent on the side of a mountain. Wow.
Day Four: Machu Picchu. After passing out cold the night before, I was awoken when it was still dark (and naturally, pouring rain). I am normally not a morning person, but that morning I jumped out of bed, gathered my things, and went to breakfast in a hurry, saying Merry Christmas to everyone I saw!
Then, still sopping in rain, we started the last two hours of the trek that would bring us to Machu Picchu. I was so excited to arrive that I was practically running down the slippery Inca “death” stairs, but I couldn’t help myself. Just as a child beams while opening a present on Christmas Day, I was beaming while opening myself to a cultural masterpiece that I had dreamed of seeing for years prior.
The day went amazingly well, despite the persistent rain and icy wind that hit us while exploring the ruins. By the time we left Machu Picchu at midday, we were sufficiently awed by the temples, the designs, the rooms, the symbols, the views, the ideas, and the lives of the Incas. And then the moment finally came where we had to say goodbye to Machu Picchu—a true wonder of the world.
You are right if you are thinking that I sound corny in writing all this. However, I do not believe that there is any other way to describe it. After participating in a four day hike with incredible company and a finale of arriving at a gorgeous and famous site, I feel like the luckiest person on earth.
Pictures are here:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=49873058&l=a3d3b8f5c4&id=10048141
More to come!!!
I send my love!
Anne Marie
When I was studying in Chile last year, I really learned how to travel and became comfortable with going to new places with few plans and an open mind. I also started to think about where my next trip would be when I had the chance to travel again, and I immediately chose Peru. I knew that Peru would be quite different from Chile—from the food to the culture to the landscape. I also wanted to be able to see Machu Picchu and learn about the Inca culture. So after many months looking for plane tickets and trying to make plans to go to Peru, things finally fell into place. Not only did I find a way to get to Peru and stay there for many months, I also found three friends who wanted to join. And even better, I found a way to come to Chile for New Year’s and visit all the people that I met a year ago!
I spent the last couple months of 2009 waiting in anticipation for the trip, along with my friends Anne, Ivey, Ke, and Kristina. Then, within days of finals ending in December, we all left the U.S. (on four different flights) and met up in the Lima airport on the night of December 19th.
We arrived in Cuzco the next day, where we stayed for a couple days in order to acclimatize to the altitude before we started hiking to Machu Picchu. Our first moments in Cuzco were incredible—we drank coca tea and explored the hills and streets of the antiquated town. We also ate Peruvian food, which was by far some of the most exquisite food I have ever tasted. To give you an idea, we ate asparagus soup, stuffed chicken, homemade pizzas, and avocado stuffed with chicken and veggies. We also tested our palettes with cuye, aka guinea pig, which is a traditional Peruvian dish (see photo albums for detail). It is supposedly full of fiber, but we found it salty and strange. I don’t really know how I feel about it, but I think I will give it another try at some point!
After two days in Cuzco, we woke up at 4am on December 22nd so that we would be ready for our 5am pickup to hike the Inca Trail. We finally arrived at Kilometer 82, the starting point of the four day hike! Rather than going through the details of the trek, which I could not even begin to put into words, I will provide you with a few anecdotes from each day to give you a feel for how it went!
Day One: The most memorable moments of day one included hiking alongside the Urubamba River, listening to our guide’s discussions about Incan culture and flora and fauna. He taught us about a hallucinogenic flower, pigment from wood lice, and the culture and history of the Incas. I learned so much, including the fact that the Incas represented the universe in three levels—the underworld, represented by a serpent, the land, represented by a puma, and the heavens, represented by a condor. Also, the constructed their communities in the shapes of these animals, so we had the chance to see a complex that housed about 400 people that was built into the side of the mountain in the shape of a serpent. Very interesting! Also, on Day One we hiked through areas populated by indigenous people, so we had the chance to see their houses and their lifestyle.
Day Two: Day Two was affectionately called Challenge Day, and it is not without reason. Before this trip, I thought the Grand Canyon was difficult, where we hiked almost a mile uphill on Day Two. However, the Grand Canyon was cake compared to Challenge Day, where we would have to hike about 1,500 meters (4,900 feet) not only uphill, but up Inca “death” stairs, as I began to refer to them since they were huge, steep, and slippery. Also, we were hiking at a pretty high altitude, where our highest point (Dead Woman’s Pass) was 4,200 meters (13,800 feet)! Seeing as all of us were coming from at or near sea level, this was quite the shcok to our systems, and took a while to get used to. Luckily for us, it was raining almost the entire day, so the extra oxygen in the air made things a bit easier (relatively). Haha.
The most memorable moment of that day happened exactly at the moment Anne and I arrived at Dead Woman’s Pass. We had gone up at least 1200 Inca “death” stairs for four hours straight, and we could see the entire valley below. I was singing 99 bottles of beer on the wall when I finally took the last step up to the top of the pass. And right at the moment that we arrived, it started to rain and hail very heavily! I quickly threw on my “waterproof” clothes, took a look at the looming clouds hanging over the valley, and started to go down the other side. Then, I saw Anne come frolicking down the steps with a huge smile on her face, saying, “This is badass!”
Despite the pain in our legs and the fact that we were soaking wet (turns out even rain clothes don’t keep out rain on Machu Picchu), we had a blast. Plus, when we arrived to the campsite, we got to eat lomo saltado, a famous Peruvian meat dish with veggies, potatoes, soup and garlic bread! What a treat!
Day Three: Day three was pretty eventful—we hiked up to another pass, saw more ruins, hiked downhill past a couple lakes, and then hiked through an area of rainforest while it was raining and misty out! Everything was so green and wet—it was really incredible. Plus the mist in the air made the whole scene very mystical, which just added to the experience! Once again, our clothes didn’t really keep out the rain, and we ended the day with just as many wet clothes as the day before.
The up-side of the whole situation was that getting to camp felt AMAZING and since it was the last night of camping, we were at a place that even had a bar/restaurant! AKA it had beer, a VERY welcome relief to exhausted bodies (and the altitude made getting tipsy very simple). Sitting in the restaurant with dry clothes and cold beer, I felt ridiculously lucky—I was on the side of a mountain in the Andes and I was with my best friends. Plus, it was Christmas Eve and the next day we would be at Machu Picchu!
When I didn’t think life could get any better, I was proved wrong. We went to eat dinner and had the most beautiful Christmas dinner prepared for us, thanks to our amazing cooks and porters, who work so hard (and for so little) to help us do the trek (they pretty much run the trail, while carrying around 60 pounds of supplies and wearing sandals). I can’t even remember exactly what we ate, but it was to die for. And it was cooked in a tent on the side of a mountain. Wow.
Day Four: Machu Picchu. After passing out cold the night before, I was awoken when it was still dark (and naturally, pouring rain). I am normally not a morning person, but that morning I jumped out of bed, gathered my things, and went to breakfast in a hurry, saying Merry Christmas to everyone I saw!
Then, still sopping in rain, we started the last two hours of the trek that would bring us to Machu Picchu. I was so excited to arrive that I was practically running down the slippery Inca “death” stairs, but I couldn’t help myself. Just as a child beams while opening a present on Christmas Day, I was beaming while opening myself to a cultural masterpiece that I had dreamed of seeing for years prior.
The day went amazingly well, despite the persistent rain and icy wind that hit us while exploring the ruins. By the time we left Machu Picchu at midday, we were sufficiently awed by the temples, the designs, the rooms, the symbols, the views, the ideas, and the lives of the Incas. And then the moment finally came where we had to say goodbye to Machu Picchu—a true wonder of the world.
You are right if you are thinking that I sound corny in writing all this. However, I do not believe that there is any other way to describe it. After participating in a four day hike with incredible company and a finale of arriving at a gorgeous and famous site, I feel like the luckiest person on earth.
Pictures are here:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=49873058&l=a3d3b8f5c4&id=10048141
More to come!!!
I send my love!
Anne Marie
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Mucho que hacer…
Before I begin, here are some pictures: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2510753&id=10048141&l=90ffb528c7
It is amazing how much can happen in just a few weeks. After spending some time in Tapachula, I went to Guatemala with the group, but for the most part, I traveled alone. I stayed in Antigua for a couple days, which is a neat colonial town that has lots of foreigners, Spanish schools, and bars. I found a couple hangouts and met some interesting people. Among them were two Argentinean hippies who were traveling from Argentina to Tijuana and back in an old car under the name “Bandera Latino Americana” (Latin American Flag). They were educated, open-minded, understanding guys, and they taught me a lot. After my meeting with them, I started reading a book called Open Veins of Latin America, which tells the stories of conquer and killing and greed that brought about the birth of Latin America as we know it, complete with problems of hunger and poverty and conflict and disparity. Although it is not necessarily warm and fuzzy, the book is a must read for anyone who wants to know more about the history and development of Latin America.
After Antigua, I made my way to a few of the communities around Lake Atitlan, including Panajachel, San Pedro, and San Lucas Toliman. In the few days that I spent on the lake, I met people from all over the world, rode in the back of pickup trucks full of indigenous people, met some volunteers from the U.S. who work on economic development projects, read, wrote, and relaxed to the sound of insects chirping and water crashing on the lakeshore. Though I felt lonely at times, I was happy to meet new people and to appreciate the beauty of the landscape around me.
Since we returned from Guatemala, we have been busy visiting water systems and working to establish more economic development projects here, including a nursery of rambutan trees. The whole time I have been translating, and I have had some pretty hilarious moments (one of which occurred when I misinterpreted someone’s question and gave a completely wrong answer in front of fifty people). ☺
A couple days ago, we visited one of the water systems, which is run by a cooperative of coffee farmers called Procacen. The cooperative has many projects beyond coffee, including growing mushrooms, producing organic compost, harvesting honey from African bees, and now making purified water. The cooperative was started by an organization called ECOSUR to use as a model for other areas, and after four years, it is doing very well and constantly expanding. The coffee farmers of Chiapas (and most other areas) are typically individually minded, as they usually work solely for themselves and for their families. Yet in this cooperative, about 30 families come together to pool resources and augment development in the area. Also, they attempt to sustain the natural environment with the products they produce. Being able to see the cooperative in action was incredible, and seeing amazing results come from the projects was even better. Groups of people banding together to carry out projects like these are truly making a dent in lessening poverty in this extremely poor region of Mexico.
I also finally had the chance to spend some time with the kids at Mision Mexico (www.lovelifehope.com), and I even joined them at the beach last Sunday. It was an incredible day—we played in the waves, jumped around in the sand, found shells and crabs in the rocks, and watched the kids surf! At this point, about 25 kids are surfing, from ages 8 to 18. These kids have come so far, to the point where they not only swim and play in the ocean (which is not very common in Mexican culture), but also surf all day long!
After my own personal surfing lesson (where I actually stood up!), I made it home and passed out for half a day. It turns out that going to the beach with fifty-five kids on one hour of sleep is not the best idea ever…
Well, I guess that is enough for now. Write me at anorgren@asu.edu and let me know how you are doing!
I leave you with the lyrics of a song by Bacilos:
Esto no va a pasar, esto no va a cambiar
Esto no va a dejar de ser una tragedia
La tragedia del que no se quiere
Esto no va a pasar, esto no va a sanar
Porque no hay un disparo que pueda borrar la historia
Que nos corre por las venas
This is not going to pass, this is not going to change
This is not going to stop from being a tragedy
The tragedy that no one wants
This is not going to pass, this is not going to get better
Because there is not a bullet that can erase the history
That runs through our veins
Though we cannot erase history, together we can work to make the future better. I see progress here everyday, and my only hope is that it continues.
Hugs from Tapachula,
Anne Marie
It is amazing how much can happen in just a few weeks. After spending some time in Tapachula, I went to Guatemala with the group, but for the most part, I traveled alone. I stayed in Antigua for a couple days, which is a neat colonial town that has lots of foreigners, Spanish schools, and bars. I found a couple hangouts and met some interesting people. Among them were two Argentinean hippies who were traveling from Argentina to Tijuana and back in an old car under the name “Bandera Latino Americana” (Latin American Flag). They were educated, open-minded, understanding guys, and they taught me a lot. After my meeting with them, I started reading a book called Open Veins of Latin America, which tells the stories of conquer and killing and greed that brought about the birth of Latin America as we know it, complete with problems of hunger and poverty and conflict and disparity. Although it is not necessarily warm and fuzzy, the book is a must read for anyone who wants to know more about the history and development of Latin America.
After Antigua, I made my way to a few of the communities around Lake Atitlan, including Panajachel, San Pedro, and San Lucas Toliman. In the few days that I spent on the lake, I met people from all over the world, rode in the back of pickup trucks full of indigenous people, met some volunteers from the U.S. who work on economic development projects, read, wrote, and relaxed to the sound of insects chirping and water crashing on the lakeshore. Though I felt lonely at times, I was happy to meet new people and to appreciate the beauty of the landscape around me.
Since we returned from Guatemala, we have been busy visiting water systems and working to establish more economic development projects here, including a nursery of rambutan trees. The whole time I have been translating, and I have had some pretty hilarious moments (one of which occurred when I misinterpreted someone’s question and gave a completely wrong answer in front of fifty people). ☺
A couple days ago, we visited one of the water systems, which is run by a cooperative of coffee farmers called Procacen. The cooperative has many projects beyond coffee, including growing mushrooms, producing organic compost, harvesting honey from African bees, and now making purified water. The cooperative was started by an organization called ECOSUR to use as a model for other areas, and after four years, it is doing very well and constantly expanding. The coffee farmers of Chiapas (and most other areas) are typically individually minded, as they usually work solely for themselves and for their families. Yet in this cooperative, about 30 families come together to pool resources and augment development in the area. Also, they attempt to sustain the natural environment with the products they produce. Being able to see the cooperative in action was incredible, and seeing amazing results come from the projects was even better. Groups of people banding together to carry out projects like these are truly making a dent in lessening poverty in this extremely poor region of Mexico.
I also finally had the chance to spend some time with the kids at Mision Mexico (www.lovelifehope.com), and I even joined them at the beach last Sunday. It was an incredible day—we played in the waves, jumped around in the sand, found shells and crabs in the rocks, and watched the kids surf! At this point, about 25 kids are surfing, from ages 8 to 18. These kids have come so far, to the point where they not only swim and play in the ocean (which is not very common in Mexican culture), but also surf all day long!
After my own personal surfing lesson (where I actually stood up!), I made it home and passed out for half a day. It turns out that going to the beach with fifty-five kids on one hour of sleep is not the best idea ever…
Well, I guess that is enough for now. Write me at anorgren@asu.edu and let me know how you are doing!
I leave you with the lyrics of a song by Bacilos:
Esto no va a pasar, esto no va a cambiar
Esto no va a dejar de ser una tragedia
La tragedia del que no se quiere
Esto no va a pasar, esto no va a sanar
Porque no hay un disparo que pueda borrar la historia
Que nos corre por las venas
This is not going to pass, this is not going to change
This is not going to stop from being a tragedy
The tragedy that no one wants
This is not going to pass, this is not going to get better
Because there is not a bullet that can erase the history
That runs through our veins
Though we cannot erase history, together we can work to make the future better. I see progress here everyday, and my only hope is that it continues.
Hugs from Tapachula,
Anne Marie
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